I have been messing around with dying since I was a teenager. My first introduction to home dying was changing the colour of a dress I had bought from a jumble sale with a little pot of dylon cold dye that you had to add salt to. The result was not quite what I had hoped for but I was hooked and started researching how to improve my results. This sent me down the rabbit hole of natural dying where I have been lost ever since. Before undyed yarn was widely available I would buy wool jumpers from charity shops and jumble sales unpick them and then dye the wool with everything from the kitchen such as onion skills and turmeric to foraged finds like scots pine cones and sloe berries. And re-knit these finds into hats, scarves, and the occasional jumper.
It wasn’t until I became a hand spinner that I discovered acid dyes and for a time I would kettle dye 1kg of fleece at a time. Now I have returned to natural dying and I have decided that my days of synthic dyes are over. This is a very personal choice and I understand that natural dyes are not for everyone. In this article a will lay out the pros and cons of natural over synthetic dyes. I hope you will find this a useful guide and you can make an informed decision when you choose which to use in your next dying project.
What are Natural Dyes?
Natural dyes are derived from natural sources, such as plants, minerals, and insects. These dyes are extracted from various parts of plants, including leaves, roots, flowers, and bark, as well as from minerals and certain insects (like cochineal). Natural dyes have been used for centuries in various cultures for textile dyeing and are appreciated for their unique and often subtle colour variations.

Pros Of Natural Dyes
Eco-Friendly: Natural dyes are derived from naturally occurring pigments found in plants, minerals and insects. Making them more environmentally friendly than synthetic dyes that are often divided from petrochemicals.
Unique Colours: Natural dyes produce unique and subtle shades that are often affected by the place were they grow and the water that is used to process them. Making them rooted in the place they were made.
Cultural Heritage: Using natural dyes can connect artists to traditional dyeing practices of the area they live in and their cultural identity which in turn can inform their work as artists.
Biodegradable: Natural dyes and the materials they are made from are biodegradable and can often be composted safely at home. This is a major consideration when disposing of exhausted dye baths.
Cons of Natural Dyes
Colourfastness: Natural dyes are often less colourfast than synthetic dyes and the colours will fade over time due to washing and exposure to sunlight.
Complex to use: Preparation of the dye bath can be both time-consuming and more complicated than synthetic acid dyes.
Limited colour pallet: Although it is possible to create an unlimited range of colours with natural dyes is more complicated than using synthetic dyes to achieve.
Variability: The results can be unpredictable, inconsistent difficult to repeat acute colours.
Resource Heavy: Natural dying requires more “stuff”, mordants, dye materials, multiple pots and pans plus water.
What are Synthetic Dyes?
Synthetic dyes are artificially created colourants and pigments made from chemical compounds. They are produced through chemical processes, often derived from petroleum products or coal tar. Synthetic dyes offer a wide range of vibrant colours and are known for their consistency and durability. They are commonly used in the textile industry due to their cost-effectiveness and ease of application.

Pros of Synthetic Dyes
Cost-Effective: Synthetic dyes are generally cheaper than natural dyes, making them an economical choice for the home dyer, especially for large projects.
Wide Color Range: They offer a vast array of colours and shades, allowing for greater creativity and consistency in colour results.
Ease of Use: Synthetic dyes are often ready to use without extensive preparation, making them more convenient for home dyers.
Versatility: Synthetic dyes can be used on a variety of fabrics, including synthetic materials, which can not be dyed with natural dyes effectively.
Consistency: Synthetic dyes provide reliable, consistent and repeatable results.
Cons of Synthetic Dyes
Health Risks: Many synthetic dyes contain toxic substances that can cause skin irritations and allergic reactions upon prolonged exposure.
Environmental Impact: The production of synthetic dyes takes place in factory settings and relies on polluting petrochemicals. Furthermore, the disposal of synthetic dyes can result in environmental pollution, significantly affecting sustainability.
Limited Connection to Nature: Using synthetic dyes may lack the connection with nature and place that comes with using natural dyes, which can be a significant aspect for many fibre artists.
Chemical Sensitivity: Some artists may be sensitive to the chemicals in synthetic dyes, which can limit their use or require additional precautions during dyeing.
Conclusion
In the vibrant world of fibre arts, the choice between natural and synthetic dyes is a deeply personal one that reflects not only your artistic vision but also your values. As someone who has journeyed through both schools of dyeing, I can appreciate the appeal of each. Natural dyes offer a unique connection to the environment, allowing you to create beautiful, one-of-a-kind colours that tell stories of the plants and materials used. They embody a sense of tradition and sustainability that resonates with many artists, including myself.
Synthetic dyes on the other hand provide a level of convenience and consistency that is hard to match. Their ease of use and unlimed colour range make them appealing, especially for larger projects or those new to dyeing. However, it’s essential to consider the environmental impact and potential health risks associated with synthetic options.
Ultimately, the choice is yours, what matters most is that you enjoy the process and create pieces that resonate with you. I hope this guide helps you navigate the pros and cons of each dyeing method and helps you make an informed decision in your next dyeing adventure. Happy dyeing!